Troubleshooting Tips for Your Freezer

Should your freezer isn’t working by any means, check to be sure the light inside the freezer is working. Could you hear the electric motor, fan, or other noises received from your appliance? In the event you do hear something that means your deep freeze is still working. In the event you don’t hear whatever, try adjusting the temperatures to a colder environment. If that doesn’t correct it check to see if there is power approaching to the freezer. Only plug a device into the same outlet as the freezer. If there is no power, look at your circuit breaker and fuses. If your outlet is still to not get power you should call an electrical contractor to fix it. In the event there is power but your freezer still isn’t very working you can even examine the wiring, thermostat, defrost timer, and compressor. At this point, since deep freeze problems can be difficult to pinpoint, you should contact a machine service man to determine precisely what is leading to the problem.

The next of my troubleshooting techniques for your refrigerator is if your deep freeze is iced up, or if it isn’t cool enough. A self-defrosting fridge that cools poorly is usually a response to heavy ice build up on the evaporator coils. If you see ice or ice on the ceiling, internal walls, or the floor of your freezer that is a sign of frost build up, which is an issue with the self-defrosting system. The best way to test whether the situation is with the defrosting system is to get all food from the freezer, turn the thermostat off, and leave the doorway open for 48 hours. It would be a good idea to keep a few towels around in case the normal water overflows the drip baking pan. This process manually defrosts the freezer. If the frost has melted completely, turn the thermostat to its usual setting. In case the freezer starts cooling properly then it is a problem with a part of the defrost system. To test the defrost timer just advance This to the defrosting circuit, after 45 minutes the timer should advance away of the defrost circuit. You can also test the defrost thermostat, and the defrost heater for continuity.

In case your freezer is noisy you should first locate the place that the noise is coming from: the lining, the outside, or the lower side of the freezer. In the event that the sound is approaching from the inside, it is probably as a result of supporter. The freezer uses a fan to advance the chilly air throughout the freezer. This also runs whenever the door is closed and the freezer is air conditioning. If you have a freezer at the top, the lover is located on the back wall, near to the top of bottom in the middle. If the deep freeze is at the lower part, the fan is on the back wall and close to the top part of the freezer. If the freezer is on the left hand side, the fan is on the back of the wall membrane, close to the top, or in the centre. To see if the fan is triggering the noise open the deep freeze and contain the door change. If the noise gets louder when the entrance is open, the evaporator fan is the reason. You will have to replace it entirely, these parts cannot be repaired. If the sound is coming from the back of the refrigerator, there are two components to check if your freezer is self-defrosting. The first thing to check on is the compressor, a heavy, dark component with tubes and wires placed on it. In the event that this is the loud part, you will need to replace it, which can get expensive. The condenser fan could be the problem, if the fan has lint on the blades that is probably where the sound is coming from. Clean off of the blades, and if it still makes sound, just buy a new toothbrush. If it is coming from the lower part freezer, the noise is usually always coming from the back of the freezer; refer to the section above

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